Les chaines by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Les chaines

Inscribed “n° 6793” (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This mesmerizing costume captures the sultry allure characteristic of Art Deco cabarets, venues synonymous with luxury and sensuality. Named Les chaines, the ensemble features a bare-chested woman adorned with a petite silver-metal skirt. Chains cascade from her torso, encircle her neck and intertwine with a metallic headpiece. This headpiece extends into a long silver braid, mimicking the appearance of a chain. Designed to captivate and bewitch, only a daring performer ready to immerse herself in the avant-garde ambiance of Parisian theater would don this attire.

Paris in the Art Deco era stood at the crossroads of tradition and modernity, establishing itself as a global epicenter of art, literature and intellectual thought. Amidst the echoes of World War I, avant-garde movements like Surrealism and Cubism intermingled with jazz melodies wafting through the city’s smoky salons. As cocktails flowed, intellectuals, writers and artists from around the world found themselves drawn to the cosmopolitan allure of Paris. Erté, with his revolutionary costuming and otherworldly sets, was perfectly poised to unleash his creativity. He worked with many of the the city’s premier entertainment venues, and his striking visuals, full of bold patterns and vibrant colors, came to define the modernity of the era.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1943

Paper: 12“ high x 9” wide
Frame: 17 5/8“ high x 14 1/2” wide x 3/4" deep

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024