Lydia by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Lydia

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed "N°114.4" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This original gouache from the creative mind of Erté entitled Lydia puts the spotlight on Erté’s high fashion artistry and whimsical eye for design. Oft-called “Father of Art Deco,” this alluring and highly feminine ensemble showcases Erté's fashion-forward sartorial genius. Merging the influences of modern culture and Orientalism, Lydia recalls the exotic attire of other famed dancers of the era like Josephine Baker. Erté designs an elaborate headdress and matching low-slung frilly skirted belt. Each article of the scant costume is punctuated by large eye details. With arms placed in an elegant outstretched pose, Erté's model holds a large butterfly in one hand, adding an air of exotic whimsy to the design. Erté’s precise lines and striking color palette pop with dazzling intensity and this unique gouache on paper underscores the artist's daring creativity and unimpeachable sartorial genius.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1940

Paper: 12 1/2” high by 8” wide
Frame: 18” high by 13 1/4" wide by 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans